The King and I?

Fancy Spending the night at a stately home fit for a King and Queen? 

Fatal Duels, Political Scandal, Royal Weddings and Spa Treatments, Cliveden House has it all. 

It’s the UK’s most notorious stately home, peppered in scandal, controversy and intrigue. And yet, it is deemed prestigious enough to be frequented by the British Royal Family and used for the most ceremonious of royal occasions. I was lucky enough to be able to spend a magnificent weekend at one of the UK’s most decadent, historic homes and stay in the same room that Meghan Markle slept in, the night before marrying Prince Harry!  

Starting life as a token of forbidden love, Cliveden House was built in 1666 by the 2nd Duke of Buckingham. It was a gift to his mistress, the Countess of Shrewsbury. After finding out about the affair, her husband challenged the duke to a duel, in which he was fatally wounded and died. 

In the 1850’s, two centuries and two severe fires later, the fashionable architect, Sir Charles Barry, who designed the Palace of Westminster, was commissioned to re-design the house. No expense was spared, and he created the lavish, Palladian style, magnificent structure which stands today. 

Cliveden has seen many royals and celebrities grace its hallowed corridors, from Queen Victoria and Queen Elizabeth II to Sir Winston Churchill and Gandhi. It’s always been a favourite with the Americans too, such as President Franklin D. Roosevelt and Charlie Chaplin, to most recently being the hotel in which Meghan Markle spent the night before her wedding. 

But perhaps Cliveden’s most scandalous story is that of the Profumo affair in 1964. John Profumo, the Secretary of State for War, met model and actress, 19-year-old Christine Keeler, at a pool party held by society darlings and owners of Cliveden, Lord and Lady Astor. The 3-month affair which ensued and her romantic links to a Russian spy, saw him disgracefully dismissed from parliament and it also contributed to the downfall of Harold Macmillan’s conservative government. It was such a scandal at the time, plus the rumours of sex parties, that eventually, the stress and anxiety of all proved too much for Lord Astor, who passed away and then his family left Cliveden. Controversial stuff! 

In 1985 Cliveden became a privately owned five AA Red Star award-winning hotel.  

It is currently a luxurious five-star Relais & Châteaux hotel and spa, housed within the exceptional Grade I listed stately home. It boasts 47 palatial rooms with individual décor and 376 acres of spectacular National Trust grounds, including parkland, the river, floral gardens, sculptures and water fountains.  

On arrival I was wowed by dramatic sweeping driveway and awestruck by the grandeur of the house. The circular car park in front of the property is often lined with unique vintage automobiles and modern super cars. And as expected, the doorman opens your car door for you in his pristine white gloves and gilt-edged cap. Before you know it, your car has been valet parked, your luggage whisked off to your room and you’re enjoying a welcome glass of bubbles in front of the ginormous roaring fire, in the burgundy velvet, columned and carpeted reception room. The décor Is extremely grand and yet homely at the same time. The air is scented with burning wood from the fireplace, and accented with the hotels chic signature scent, which smell of Christmas, orange and tobacco. It’s a delightful experience. 

I was escorted down a corridor of marble busts on plinths, to my bedroom, the famed Mountbatten Suite. Which I might point out is the size of my entire house in London. This enormous, lavishly appointed bedroom is large enough to house an entire pool table, numerous sofas, armoires, ancient antiques and paintings of royals who had probably stayed there. The biggest four poster bed I’ve ever seen, a colossal fireplace, mahogany wood panelling and triple height sash windows, add the finishing touches. 

It felt like it might have been the official drawing room or billiards room in its former life. I must admit I was a little scared. It all felt quite huge and spooky for little me, on my own. But apart from my unfounded fears of paranormal activity, the hotel is nonetheless one of the most stunning properties in England.  

After being wowed by my room, I went for a brisk walk around the incredible grounds. It’s worth you visiting here (National Trust members go for free) for views of the lawns, gardens and countryside alone. There are so many beautiful hidden art works, dramatic vistas, sculptures and water fountains to be discovered. 

After my walk, I headed to the spa where I was booked in for a massage treatment. The Spa is housed behind the Victorian walled garden and surrounded by tumbling scented roses and lavender.  It consists of elegant white treatment rooms, a state-of-the-art gym, indoor and outdoor heated pools and relaxing hot tubs. I had the Cliveden Recovery Body Treatment which was a heavenly mix of massage, hot stones, scrubs and mask. Afterwards I lounged around the relaxation rooms and the outdoor pool, in my exceptionally cosy, towelling robe and fluffy slippers. 

There are two restaurants in the hotel. The Cliveden Dining Room in the main house offers formal dining with a view of the gardens and river whilst being surrounded by fine art. It’s also where you can book in for afternoon tea, which is available for non-residential guests. Or there is the Astor Grill, which is housed in the refurbished stables just off the main house for a much more relaxed option with an American diner meets French brasserie style menu. I love the fact that Cliveden’s menus are 30% vegan and plant based, which offers much more choice for everyone.  

Very few houses in history have had such a tumultuous and scandalous past as that of Cliveden. From star studded parties, through to hosting royalty, the house has seen the changing face of society many times over and holds many secrets in its rooms. Even if you don’t stay overnight, I highly recommend a day visit to the epic gardens. There are many seasonal events held throughout the year, from literary festivals, Easter bunny hunts and Halloween Spook-tacles, through to charity hikes, boat trips and of course the Christmas lights.  

If you’re looking for the ultimate luxurious, palatial stay, that’s fit for a king or queen, I couldn’t recommend anywhere more prestigious than Cliveden House. It’s an extra special treat! 

Tripr says: Have you a story to share about a trip to a stately house? We’d love to hear about it! Write to us at info@tripr.travel and we may feature your story too! 

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